sbisson: (Default)
sbisson ([personal profile] sbisson) wrote2008-11-26 05:15 pm
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Reaching to Heaven

Picture the first thing you think of when you think of Watts.

A deprived urban community, still scared by racial conflict and the infamous riots? Or is it something different, a place that's been reborn and has transcended its dark days?

That last is the quiet little district we visited a few weeks ago, to track down one of its more idiosyncratic landmarks.

Like most of LA, Watts is a a simple grid of tree-lined streets, full of little bungalows with gardens full of bright flowers. In the bright of the fall sun, it's an inviting place, wide open streets came and peaceful, basking in the Pacific light.

You drive through districts and streets with names familiar from police procedurals and thrillers, watching lines of children walking to a playground and families shopping at a park farmer's market, happily shattering illusions with every inch of road. There are kites on the houses, and morning glories glowing purple in the sun. Crossing the metro lines you see them, the towers, reaching to the blue skies in a grid of helices and spirals.

There's not much parking by the Watts Towers State Historical Park, and the gates are firmly bolted shut, while workers continue to carefully restore the tower that was damaged in the storms of 2005. They'll reopen next year, but for now you can still walk around the walls of Simon Rodia's garden and look at the towers he built over 30 years, from 1921 to the mid-1950s. It's an amazing place, where one man let his imagination go wild, putting together a construction that reminds you alternately of Gaudi's Parc Güelll and of the Little Chapel of Les Vauxbelets.

Broken pottery and glass encrust the towers, adding bright colours to the brown and grey of the concrete. Here and there are mosaics, often with the repeated motifs of "1921" and "Nuestro Pueblo", along with impressions of the simple tools that Rodia used to build his masterwork.

Reaching for heaven Sky point Reaching for heaven

Sceptre Topped out Through the arched window

Twists

A marvellous place, and one worth taking some time to visit.
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[identity profile] akirlu.livejournal.com 2008-11-26 05:58 pm (UTC)(link)
Yes, the Rhodia towers and the Bradbury Building were among the iconic places I took Maureen to see on her TAFF visit. That was actually my first visit to the towers, and what was striking after having seen them only in pictures is how much color they have. Photographers are fond of taking silhouette shots of them, which emphasize shape, but all that wonderful riot of potsherd color is lost. So I particularly appreciate your color photos.

And yes, Watts is a neighborhood much like any other in LA, and better kept than many.

[identity profile] davesslave.livejournal.com 2008-11-27 12:13 am (UTC)(link)
I have always wanted to see that.

[identity profile] natalief.livejournal.com 2008-11-27 11:44 am (UTC)(link)
Not having been to Watts, the first thing that I think of is actually Extreme Makeover: Home Edition. They did one in Watts - the Harris Family.

"Season 1, Ep 6: Harris Family

Watts, CA — The team give the Harris family's home a makeover. The Harris' home had been the victim of several floods."

P.S. Thank you again for letting me visit so many places through your photos!
Edited 2008-11-27 11:45 (UTC)

[identity profile] therealdrhyde.livejournal.com 2008-11-27 12:16 pm (UTC)(link)
When I think of Watts, I think of Watts of Westminster, church furnishers. They made my Splendid Cloak for me.

[identity profile] marypcb.livejournal.com 2008-11-28 01:46 am (UTC)(link)
what I thought of - apart from the pictures in the Kaffe Fasset books that introduced me to the towers - and Gaudi, was the place we went to near Annecy, http://www.jardins-secrets.com/chapitre15_en_15.html - which is a stunning tribute to 'wow, what you can do with concrete, moulds, inspiration and a little pigment'